We strap one of Moza's most impressive setups to a sim rig and take it for a spin with the hottest titles available. Plus, the best discounts available on this kit.
Right off the starter grid, I must admit I was sceptical during the unboxing process of this Moza racing setup. You see, I was first drawn to the R12 Wheel Base, the CRP Pedals, and the GS V2P GT Wheel for three reasons—Moza's sterling reputation, the fact that it was a GT3/F1 configuration not offered by my current wheel, and because I’m a fiend for greater force feedback. The latter didn’t seem probable here, despite Moza's superior FF numbers.
I’m very much a simmer who feels the need to feel the speed. My current workhorse, a Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel, is no slouch in the FF department with its not-unimpressive 11Nm of torque. That said, the R12’s direct drive servo system goes harder at 12Nm.
The Spinal Tap leap from eleven to a dozen sure amped me up, but I recoiled when spotting the footprint differences of these similarly priced wheel bases. As I was grease monkeying everything off my sim rig, it was impossible not to notice the dashboard-like Logi Pro wheel base (30.5 x 29 x 20cm) dwarfing Moza's ultra-compact R12 base (22.5 x 15.6 x 12.3cm).
I caught myself wondering: Is it even possible to get more power out of such a svelte package? In short order, the answer came back as a resounding, wrist-rattling yes.
We'll delve into the details of that in a sec, but for now, let’s get some best price options for anybody who clicked in here with their mind made up already. Everybody else can skip all that window shopping by clicking here to continue to my hands on impressions.
Long story short, the R12 Wheel Base is a solidly built nerve-centre that will serve as your HUB for Moza’s highly interchangeable racing ecosystem. Boasting an aviation-grade aluminum alloy housing with sexy laser-etched accents, it certainly looks the goods after I bolt it onto the business plate of my trusty Playseat Alcantara sim seat.
From here, it’s a wiring noodlefest as you connect the base to a (considerably sized) power brick, and then to a wall socket. The next extra step I had was
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